Hair treatment and revitalizing composition and methods

ABSTRACT

A hair care composition comprising: a crosslinking component comprising an inorganic fluoride; and a conditioning component, wherein the composition has a ratio of crosslinking component to conditioning component in the range of about 10:90 to about 95:5.

CROSS-REFERENCED APPLICATIONS

This application is a Continuation-in-Part of U.S. patent applicationSer. No. 13/656,286, filed on Oct. 19, 2012, and claims priority to U.S.Provisional Application No. 61/618,276, filed on Mar. 30, 2012, both ofwhich are incorporated herein by reference thereto in their entireties.

BACKGROUND OF THE DISCLOSURE

1. Field of Disclosure

The present disclosure relates to a hair care composition containing aninorganic fluoride for straightening, smoothing, defrizzing, curlingand/or relaxing of hair, and its method of use in a variety of hair careproducts, e.g., straightener solution, shampoo, conditioner, hair colorbinding treatment, hair volumizing treatment, combinations thereof, etc.

2. Description of Related Art

During the past few years, there has been a growing trend in the marketfor semi-permanent curl reduction and change in the configuration ofhair with minimum hair damage. These products affect the styleconfiguration of hair with discernible curl reduction and easiness ofstyling attributes including shine, luster, smoothness, volumereduction, and feel of hair.

Conventional techniques for temporary smoothing and removing curls havebeen by applying pomades on hair, followed by combing withuncontrollable hot, heated metal combs. These techniques have manyserious drawbacks, including scalp burning and hair damage fromexcessive heat.

Recently, improvements have been made to conventional techniques forsmoothing and straightening hair that use controllable flat irons andcurling irons. However, the straightening and smoothing effects on hairby these improved methods are only temporary, and total reversion occurswhen the person perspires, or is exposed to high humidity, andespecially after a single shampoo.

The technique of achieving semi-permanent results of straightening andsmoothing was introduced by Brazilian hair stylists using solutions thatcontained formaldehyde in amounts from 0.2-1.5%, to reduce curl, withlongevity of about four to six shampoos. A technique known as “escovaprogressiva,” where the hair was shampooed several times with high pHshampoos of about a pH of 8.5 to swell the hair, and then a “defrizzlotion” containing the formaldehyde and thermal protectors was appliedon the hair and processed for 20-30 minutes. The hair was then blowdried and flat ironed. The results from this Brazilian process resultedin temporarily straight, silky, shiny and smooth hair. In order toattain semi-permanent results lasting beyond two to three shampoos, thisprocess required weekly repeat applications.

Recently, several products have entered the market labeled as “keratintreatments.” These products have one or more keratin crosslinkers,solubilized keratin protein fractions, emollients,surfactants/emulsifiers, and preservatives. The keratin crosslinkersinclude monoaldehydes, dialdehydes and polyaldehydes at concentrationsof 2% to 10%. The chemical crosslinking and hardening of the proteinswith the aldehydes is due to the Maillard reaction. The monoaldehydesare referred to as formol, methanal, or acetaldehyde. Thesealdehyde-based keratin treatment products have many disadvantages. Themajor disadvantage with the aldehyde products is their toxicologicalprofiles, creating safety and health concerns.

Formaldehyde, also known as “formol,” “methanal,” or “methylene glycol,”is a suspected carcinogen. Formaldehyde can cause contact dermatitis.Some hair stylists have become ill from repeated exposure to these hairtreatments.

Formaldehyde is a colorless, strong-smelling and hazardous chemical thatis found in hair smoothing treatments, including the Brazilian Blowout®,owned by Crème De Le Crem Inc. of West Hollywood, Calif. The BrazilianBlowout is regarded as being a more effective and less time-consumingchoice than other hair-straightening methods, including conventionalrelaxers, Japanese thermal processing or keratin based treatments.

In 2011, the Brazilian Blowout has faced warnings and investigations bythe Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and the U.S.Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for mislabeling its products as“formaldehyde free,” when in fact their products contain methyleneglycol, a liquid form of the chemical that emits formaldehyde gas whenheated. Thus, salon workers and users of the product are exposed toformaldehyde during the entire hair straightening process (typicallylasting two hours), especially during some of the key steps of theprocess, such as blow drying and flat ironing.

Formaldehyde can cause immediate reactions to the immune system, and itis a cancer hazard. It is listed as a human carcinogen in the 12^(th)Report on Carcinogens published by the National Toxicology Program.Exposure to formaldehyde can be highly irritating to the eye, nose andthroat, which can cause coughing and sneezing. Formaldehyde can causesevere allergic reactions of the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract, andlong term exposure to low levels in the air can cause asthma-likerespiratory problems and skin irritations such as dermatitis anditching. In women, exposure to formaldehyde can also cause menstrualdisorders.

If hair salons do choose to use the hair straightening treatments thatcontain formaldehyde, they must comply with strict requirements set outin OSHA's formaldehyde standard, which sets a permissible exposure limitfor formaldehyde in the workplace at 0.75 parts of formaldehyde permillion parts of air (0.75 ppm). Furthermore, the standard requires thatemployers test the air to find out the level of formaldehyde present inthe air when the product is being used.

The difficulty and costs of complying with standards for formaldehydeplaces a significant burden on salon owners who choose to use hairsmoothing products that contain or emit formaldehyde. Due to the healthconcerns of using hair straightening products that contain formaldehyde,some salons have stopped offering the Brazilian Blowout treatment, atthe cost of losing customers.

Products containing more than 0.10% formaldehyde are prohibited in themarketplaces of several countries. Since these products are unstable,they are formulated with a large excess of formaldehyde exceeding thepermissible level. At levels of less than 2% formaldehyde, limitedcrosslinking and polymerization occurs on hair with some level of curlrelaxation with shiny and better fiber alignment shown as frizzreduction. The curl reversion is almost quantitative within two or threeshampoos, but the cuticular attributes have a few more shampoos oflongevity. At higher concentrations of formaldehyde (4-8%), highcrosslinking and fast rates of polymerization occur with a discernablecurl reduction of hair. Also, at these high levels, there is no need fora waiting period of 72 hours, and hair can be shampooed on the same ornext day.

Even though the hair appears shiny and healthy, the formaldehydepolymerization seals the cuticle and traps some of the formula agentsinto the hair shaft or cortex, making the hair unhealthy. This is due tothe water displacement and changes to the melanin, cortical cells, andmatrix of hair. Over time, the changes in the cortical cells andmicrofilaments are irreversible and result in hair damage. Repeattreatments can amplify this damage, which results in fiber failure andhair breakage.

The present inventors have unexpectedly discovered that the applicationof an inorganic fluoride, such as a sodium fluoride, is a uniquenon-toxic, non-carcinogenic, product that can be used to straighten,smooth, defrizz or curl hair. It is unexpected since sodium fluoride hasnever been associated with hair care and nothing found in the literaturewould suggest to one of ordinary skill in the art the use of such aninorganic fluoride in hair care formulation for the purpose ofstraightening, smoothing, defrizzing, or curling hair. Moreover, the useof sodium fluoride, as an inorganic salt, in a hair care productingredient is completely counterintuitive. That is, one would typicallyavoid the use of inorganic salts generally in hair care formulations,since these salts are known to cause build-up on the hair and many haircleansing products (e.g., chelating shampoos) are formulated to removeinorganic salts from the hair rather than add such salts to the hair.

SUMMARY

The present disclosure provides a composition to apply to hair thatcontains fluoride for straightening, smoothing, defrizzing, and/orrelaxing hair, and its method of use in a variety of hair care products,e.g., straightener solution, shampoo, conditioner, hair color bindingtreatment, volumizing treatment, a combination thereof, etc.

A hair care composition comprising: a crosslinking component comprisingan inorganic fluoride; and a conditioning component, wherein thecomposition has a ratio of crosslinking component to conditioningcomponent in the range of about 10:90 to about 95:5, preferably about75:25.

The inorganic fluoride is present in the crosslinking component in aconcentration of between about 0.1 to about 15%. The crosslinkingcomponent has a pH range of between about 3.0 to about 8.5, preferablybetween about 4.5 to about 5.5.

The crosslinking component further comprising at least one additionalcomponent selected from the group consisting of: a thickener, apreservative, a humectant, a pH adjuster, soothing agent, emollients,emulsifiers, fragrance and water.

The crosslinking component comprises: the inorganic fluoride having aconcentration in the range between about 0.1 to about 15%; thepreservative having a concentration in the range between about 0.2 toabout 1%; the humectant having a concentration in the range betweenabout 0.1 to about 1%; and the water to bring the concentration up to100%. The crosslinking component further comprising a pH adjuster tobring the crosslinking component to a pH in the range between about 3.0to about 8.5.

The inorganic fluoride is at least one selected from the groupconsisting of: sodium fluoride, potassium fluoride, ammonium fluoride,lithium fluoride, stannous fluoride, aluminum fluoride, zirconiumfluoride, nickel fluoride, tin fluoride, ammonium hexafluorophosphate,sodium monofluorophosphate, stannous fluorozirconate, and stannouschlorofluoride.

The preservative is at least one selected from the group consisting of:phenoxyethanol, sorbitol, potassium sorbate, sodium sorbate, methylparaben, propyl paraben, imidazolidynyl urea, and DMDM hydantoin.

The humectant is at least one selected from the group consisting of:glycerine, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, panthenol,sodium PCA, sugar alcohols, lecithin, hydrolyzed wheat proteins,hydrolyzed rice proteins, hydrolyzed keratin proteins, hydrolyzed silkproteins, lipids and polyols.

The thickener is at least one selected from the group consisting of:polysaccharide, cellulose, cellulose, derivatives, natural gums, naturalpolymers, synthetic polymers and inorganic gel mineral silicates.

The pH adjuster is at least one selected from the group consisting of:phosphoric acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid,and bases that include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodiumcarbonate, ammonium hydroxide, isopropanolamine, and monoethanolamine.

The inorganic fluoride is present in the crosslinking component in aconcentration of between about 0.1 to about 3.0%, more preferablybetween about 0.4 to about 1.25%.

The conditioning component comprises at least one selected from thegroup consisting of: amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, dimethicone,behentrimonium methosulfate, citrimonium chloride, citrimonium bromide,cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, phenyltrimethicone,pantethine, panthenylethylether, silicone quaternium, gelatin, keratinamino acids, and polyquaternium.

A method for treating hair comprising: applying a premixed compositioncomprising (a) a crosslinking component comprising an inorganic fluorideand (b) a conditioning component to a user's hair, wherein the hair isstraightened, smoothed, defrizzed or curled and wherein the premixedcomposition has a ratio of crosslinking component to conditioningcomponent in the range of about 10:90 to about 95:5.

The fluoride is preferably a salt with an alkali metal (such as sodiumfluoride, potassium fluoride, or lithium fluoride), or as ammoniumfluoride, stannous fluoride, or with hexafluorophosphate.

The compositions of the present disclosure can be applied to any type ofhair, with excellent results in hair straightening, smoothing,defrizzing, and/or relaxing.

The hair care compositions of the present disclosure areformaldehyde-free, even when heated by blow drying or flat ironing.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 shows the results for Example 1, with a sample of a control(untreated hair) and three samples of normal hair treated with 1% sodiumfluoride at pH 4.8, for very curly normal hair.

FIG. 2 shows the results for Example 2, with a sample of a control(untreated hair) and three samples of 20 volume color treated hairtreated with 1% sodium fluoride at pH 4.8, for very curly 20 volumehair.

FIG. 3 shows the results for Example 3, with a sample of a control(untreated hair) and three samples of 40 volume bleached hair treatedwith 1% sodium fluoride at pH 4.8, for very curly 40 volume bleachedhair.

FIG. 4 shows the results for Example 4, with a sample of a control(untreated hair) and three samples of wavy 20 volume hair treated with1% sodium fluoride at pH 4.8, for wavy 20 volume hair.

FIG. 5 shows the results for Example 5, with a sample of a control(untreated hair) and three samples of normal hair treated with 2% sodiumfluoride at pH 4.8, for very curly normal hair.

FIG. 6 shows the results for Example 6, with a sample of a control(untreated hair) and three samples of 40 volume bleached hair treatedwith 1.5% sodium fluoride at pH 4.8, for 40 Volume bleached hair.

FIG. 7 shows the results for Example 7, with a sample of a control(untreated hair) and three samples treated at pH 4.8, where A=1.0%sodium fluoride, B=1.5% sodium fluoride, and C=2.0% sodium fluoride.

FIG. 8 shows the results for Example 8, with a sample of a control(untreated hair) and two samples of normal curly hair treated withBrazilian Blow Out (O=Original Formula 7-8% formaldehyde and Z=ZeroFormaldehyde Formula).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

The present inventors have unexpectedly discovered that due to the smallmolecular size of the fluoride, and its affinity for multiplecross-linking sites, the fluoride can produce cross-linkage in hair andcause temporary or permanent restructuring of the hair; i.e. causesstraightening, smoothing, defrizzing and/or curling of the hair fiber.

More particularly, the use of sodium fluoride can be used in hairproducts for straightening, smoothing, defrizzing and/or curling. Sodiumfluoride has excellent water solubility.

Unexpectedly, the present inventors have discovered that the fluoridecan be used to crosslink other molecules to the hair to provide longlasting conditioning or volume to the hair. It can also be used to bindhair dye molecules in the hair for longer lasting coloring of the hair.

Sodium fluoride is an alternative to conventional hair products usingformaldehyde.

Our data show that compositions for hair treatment having about 0.1 toabout 15%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3.0%, and more preferably about0.60 to about 1.25% sodium fluoride at pH 4.8, along with apolysaccharide thickener (such as AMIGEL®) has a perceptible effect oncurl reduction, and that smoothening or better alignment of hair fibersis observed for all normal and porous hair types.

The compositions of the present disclosure include:

Composition Inorganic fluoride compound M-Fluoride 0.1-15% Preservative0.2-1% Humectant 0.1-1% pH adjuster to pH 3.0-8.5 M = Sodium, Potassium,Ammonium, Lithium, Stannous, Hexafluorophosphate

The treatment composition below was used for several performanceexamples:

Composition w/w Sodium fluoride (protein crosslinker) 1-2 Phenoxyethanol(preservative) 0.2% Glycerine (humectant) 0.5% AMIGEL ® (polysaccharidethickener) 0.6% Phosphoric acid (QS) to pH 4.8 Water (QS) to 100%

FIGS. 1 to 7 show the effects of a sodium fluoride composition onseveral hair types, normal and porous hair including 20 volume colortreated and bleached hair. The results from Examples 1 to 7 below areshown in FIGS. 1 to 7, respectively.

In each of the following examples, the hair was treated as follows: Thehair was shampooed and blotted dry. The hair was combed and thetreatment composition was applied on the hair for 35 minutes at roomtemperature with a brush and then it was treated as in the directionsbelow for each of Examples 1 to 7.

All samples marked “CNTL” are untreated hair.

For all hair samples marked “A”, the treatment composition was appliedfor 35 minutes and then the hair was rinsed with tap water. The hair wasair-dried naturally.

For all hair samples marked “B”, the treatment composition was appliedfor 35 minutes and then the hair was rinsed with tap water. The hair wasblow dried to about 90% and then flat ironed at 430° F. The hair wasthen rinsed with tap water.

For all hair samples marked “C”, the treatment composition was appliedfor 35 minutes and then the hair blow dried at a medium setting to about90%, and then flat ironed at 430° F. The hair was then rinsed with tapwater, and the hair was air-dried naturally.

EXAMPLE 1 Normal Hair

For Example 1, shown in FIG. 1, a composition of the present disclosurecontaining 1% sodium fluoride at pH 4.8 was applied to very curly normalhair.

EXAMPLE 2 20 Volume Color Treated Hair

For Example 2, shown in FIG. 2, a composition of the present disclosurecontaining 1% sodium fluoride at pH 4.8 was applied to very curly 20volume hair.

EXAMPLE 3 40 Volume Bleached Hair

For Example 3, shown in FIG. 3, a composition of the present disclosurecontaining 1% sodium fluoride at-pH 4.8 was applied to very curly 40volume bleached hair.

EXAMPLE 4 20 Volume Hair

For Example 4, shown in FIG. 4, a composition of the present disclosurecontaining 1% sodium fluoride at ˜pH 4.8 was applied to wavy 20 volumehair.

EXAMPLE 5 Normal Hair

For Example 5, shown in FIG. 5, a composition of the present disclosurecontaining 2% sodium fluoride at a pH of approximately 4.8 was appliedto very curly normal hair.

EXAMPLE 6 40 Volume Bleached Hair

For Example 6, show in FIG. 6, a composition of the present disclosurecontaining 1.5% sodium fluoride at a pH of approximately 4.8 was appliedto 40 volume bleached hair.

EXAMPLE 7 Normal Curly Hair

For Example 7, samples A, B, and C were treated as follows: Thetreatment composition was applied to the hair for 35 minutes. The hairwas blow dried at medium heat setting to about 90% dry, and thenflat-ironed at 430° F. The hair was then rinsed with tap water, and thehair was air dried naturally.

A=1.0% sodium fluoride at a pH of approximately 4.8

B=1.5% sodium fluoride at a pH of approximately 4.8

C=2.0% sodium fluoride at a pH of approximately 4.8

EXAMPLE 8 Brazilian Blow Out on Normal Curly Hair

Samples O and Z were treated as follows: The treatment composition wasapplied to the hair for 35 minutes, and then the hair was blow dried ata medium heat setting to about 90% dry. The hair was then flat-ironed at430° F., and then was rinsed with tap water. The hair was then air driednaturally.

O=Brazilian Blowout Original Formula 7-8% Formaldehyde content

Z=Brazilian Blowout Zero Formaldehyde Formula

As used in this application, the word “about” for dimensions, weights,and other measures, means a range that is ±10% of the stated value, morepreferably ±5% of the stated value, and most preferably ±2% of thestated value, including all sub ranges there between.

In practice of the present disclosure one or more other extendedcosmetic compositions can be included for their generally acceptablerecognized purposes. These can include soothing agents, such as aloe orallantoin gelatin; auxiliary emollients, such as squalene, mineral oil,argan oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, walnut oil or liquid silicones;fatty alcohol based thickeners, such as cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol,or stearic acid; low to no foaming cationic, nonionic or amphotericemulsifiers; or preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, sorbitol,potassium sorbate, sodium sorbate, methyl paraben, propyl paraben,Imidazolidynyl urea, or DMDM hydantoin.

The composition may also contain a fragrance to neutralize any malodorsof the composition.

Cream Based Composition 1 (Leave On or Rinse Off)

(W/W %) Water 70 Methyl paraben 0.15 Ethyl paraben 0.02 IsopropylPalmitate 0.61 Petrolatum 2.45 Glyceryl Stearate 2.04 Cetearyl Alcohol2.04 Cyclopentasiloxane 1.02 Fragrance 0.20 Phenoxyethanol 0.50Polyquaternium-37 1.23 Sodium Fluoride 0.5-8 pH adjustor - QS to pHWater QS to 100%

Cream Based Composition 2 (Rinse Off)

(W/W %) Water 60 Cetyl Alcohol 3.50 Stearyl Alcohol 3.00 DicetyldimoniumChloride 2.00 Propylene Glycol 0.10 Polyquaternium-7 2.00 StearylAlcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 2.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 1.30 Amodimethicone1.00 Hydrolyzed Keratin 1.00 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 0.50Fragrance 0.20 Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone 0.20 Glycerin 0.50Methylparaben 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Sodium Fluoride 0.5-8 pHadjustor - QS to pH Water QS to 100%

Cream Based Composition 3 (Leave On or Rinse Off)

(W/W %) Water 70 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 1.80 HydrolyzedKeratin 2.00 Amodimethicone 1.00 Hydrolyzed Keratin 2.00Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone 0.50 Cetrimonium Chloride 0.50Fragrance/Parfum 0.20 Hydrolyzed Collagen 0.20 Propylene Glycol 0.10Glycerine 0.20 Methylparaben 0.10 (Wheat) Germ Oil 0.001 Argania SpinosaKernel Oil 0.001 Sodium Fluoride 0.5-8 pH adjustor - QS to pH Water QSto 100%

Gel Based Composition 3 (Leave On or Rinse Off)

(W/W %) Water 70 Polyquaternium-7 4.00 Silkworm Extract 3.00 HydrolyzedKeratin 3.00 Glycerin 2.00 Cetrimonium Chloride 0.80 GuarHydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.60 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Panthenol 0.50Sodium Fluoride 0.5-8 pH adjustor - QS to pH Water QS to 100%

Non Ionic Surfactant Smoothing Shampoo

(W/W %) Water 75 Non ionic Surfactants  5-15 Foam Boosters 0.5-10 Opacifier 0.50-3   Fragrance (Parfum) 0.20-0.90 Anionic Surfactant/Fattyalcohol 0.15-2   Fatty Alcohol 0.2-0.5 Sodium Fluoride 0.01-2  Preservative 0.10-0.25 Thickener 0.05-3   Citric Acid 0.10-0.5 Chelating Agent 0.08-0.30 Sodium Citrate (and) Water (Aqua) QS to pH4.5-5.5 Water QS to 100%

Anionic Surfactant Smoothing Shampoo

(W/W %) Water 75 Anionic Surfactants  5-15 Foam Boosters 0.5-10 Opacifier .50-3   Fragrance (Parfum) 0.20-0.90 Anionic Surfactant/Fatty0.2-0.5 Sodium Fluoride 0.01-2   Preservative 0.10-0.25 Thickener0.05-3   Citric Acid 0.10-0.5  Chelating Agent 0.08-0.30 Sodium Citrate(and) Water (Aqua) QS to pH 4.5-5.5 Sodium Chloride QS to Viscosity6,000-9,000 cps Water QS to 100%

TABLE I PERFORMANCE EFFECTS OF 1% NaF Versus pH ON CURLY/FRIZZY HAIR(NORMAL CURLY, COLOR TREATED AND BLEACHED HAIR TYPE) COMPOSITION I NaF1.00% Amigel Thickener 0.60% Glycerol 0.50% Phenoxyethanol 0.20% pHAdjustor pH adjustment only QS DI Water QS. Process A: The hair swatchesare shampooed with a Clarifying shampoo, towel blot and dried at mediumheat with blow dryer. The composition I product was applied liberally tothe hair with a tint brush and processed for 35 minutes. The excessproduct was towel blotted and the hair is dried to about 95% with a blowdryer at low heat followed with flat ironing @ 430° F. using 7-8 passes.The hair was rinsed after 48 hours. The performance % Curl Reduction,Shine and Smoothness was evaluated. PERFORMANCE pH Lo (cm) Ls (cm) Lt(cm) % Curl Reduction Shine Smoothness NORMAL CURLY HAIR 3.51 18.2 27.122.2 44.94% +++ ++++ (H₂PO₄) 3.99 18.2 27.3 22.3 45.05% +++ ++ 4.5 18.226.8 25.3 82.56% +++ ++++ 5.02 18.2 27.2 19.8 17.78% ++ ++ 5.95 18.225.4 19.6 19.44% ++ ++ 6.93 18.2 27.9 20.3 21.65% +++ ++ 7.99 18.2 27.222.1 36.79% +++ ++++ NORMAL CURLY HAIR 3.82 16.6 23.3 19.1 37.31% + +++(CITRIC ACID) 4.1 16.6 24.6 20.2 45.00% ++ ++++ 4.51 16.6 25.3 18.724.14% +++ +++ 5.03 16.6 26.3 17.6 10.31% +++ ++ 6.02 16.6 24.7 19.130.86% +++ ++++ 7.03 16.6 24.1 18.2 21.33% +++ +++ 8.06 16.6 25.2 18.332.69% ++++ ++ 20 VOL COLOR 3.01 20.0 26.00 22.50 41.66% +++ +++ TREATEDHAIR 3.99 20.0 25.00 21.50 30.00% +++ +++ (H2PO4) 4.49 19.0 25.50 22.0046.15% ++++ ++++ 5.02 19.0 26.00 22.00 42.85% ++++ +++ 6.93 18.0 24.0022.50   75% +++ +++ 7.99 18.0 26.00 23.00 62.50% +++ ++++ 2X 40 VOLBLEACHED 3.01 20.0 26.00 24.00 66.66% ++ + HAIR 3.99 22.0 29.00 23.0014.28% ++ ++ (H2PO4) 4.49 21.0 27.00 25.50 75.00% +++ ++++ 5.02 21.025.00 22.00 25.00% ++ ++++ 6.93 20.0 25.50 23.00 54.55% +++ +++ 7.9921.0 27.00 24.00 50.00% +++ ++++ Process B: The hair swatches areshampooed with Clarifying shampoo, towel blot and dried at medium heatwith blow dryer. The composition I product was applied liberally to thehair with a tint brush and processed for 35 minutes. The excess productwas towel blotted and hair was blow dried straight at high heat settingusing a brush. The hair was rinsed after 48 hrs. The performance % CurlReduction, Shine and Smoothness was evaluated. PERFORMANCE pH Lo (cm) Ls(cm) Lt (cm) % Curl Reduction Shine Smoothness NORMAL CURLY HAIR 3.5116.3 27.3 21.2 44.55% +++ +++ (H₂PO₄) 3.99 16.3 26.1 18.3 20.41% +++ +++4.49 16.3 26.7 18.9 25.00% ++++ ++++ 5.02 16.3 23.6 17.5 16.44% ++ ++5.95 16.3 26.8 18.2 18.10% ++ ++ 6.93 16.3 27.1 19.2 26.85% ++ +++ 7.9916.3 27.5 20.3 35.71% +++ ++++ NORMAL CURLY HAIR 3.82 13.8 26.8 1724.62% +++ ++ (CITRIC ACID) 4.1 13.8 23.9 14.9 10.89% ++++ ++++ 4.5113.8 23.7 15.4 16.16% ++++ ++++ 5.03 17.5 26.5 18.7 13.33% ++ ++ 6.0213.8 22.6 15.8 22.73% ++ ++ 7.03 13.8 23.7 14.2  4.04% +++ +++ 8.06 13.824.2 17.4 34.62% +++ +++ 20 VOL COLOR 3.01 14.0 22.0 18.5 56.25% ++ ++TREATED HAIR 3.99 17.5 24.0 20.5 46.15% ++ ++ (H2PO4) 4.49 18.5 24.020.0 27.27% ++++ ++++ 5.02 15.0 24.0 19.0 44.44% +++ +++ 6.93 13.0 23.018.5 55.00% ++ ++ 7.99 16.0 24.0 19.5 43.75% +++ + 2X 40 VOL BLEACHED3.01 17.5 24.0 19.5 30.77% ++ + HAIR 3.99 18.0 25.0 19.5 21.43% ++ +++(H2PO4) 4.49 16.0 24.5 20.0 47.06% +++ ++++ 5.02 16.0 24.0 19.0 37.50%++ ++ 6.93 19.0 25.0 22.5 58.33% ++ +++ 7.99 17.0 25.0 20.0 37.50% +++++ Process C: The hair swatches are shampooed with Clarifying shampoo,towel blot and dried at medium heat with blow dryer. The composition Iproduct was applied liberally to the hair with a brush and processed for35 minutes. The excess product was towel blotted and air dried from thehair. The hair was rinsed after 48 hrs. The performance % CurlReduction, Shine and Smoothness was evaluated. PERFORMANCE pH Lo (cm) Ls(cm) Lt (cm) % Curl Reduction Shine Smoothness NORMAL CURLY HAIR 3.5117.5 26.2 20.5 34.48% + + (H₂PO₄) 3.99 13.8 24.5 17.5 34.58% + + 4.4917.5 24.3 18.4 13.24% + +++ 5.02 13.8 24 16.7 28.43% + ++ 5.95 17.5 24.519.2 24.29% ++ + 6.93 17.5 24.3 18.5 14.71% +++ ++ 7.99 17.5 24.3 18.413.24% ++ + NORMAL CURLY HAIR 3.82 17.5 25.8 19.4 22.89% + ++ (CITRICACID) 4.1 17.5 25.6 19 18.52% + + 4.51 17.5 26.2 17.9  4.60% +++ +++5.03 17.5 25.1 17.8  3.95% + + 6.02 14.8 25 17.8 29.41% + + 7.03 14.825.6 16.8 18.52% +++ +++ 8.06 14.8 26.8 18.6 31.67% ++ ++ 20 VOL COLOR3.01 15.0 25.0 18.0 30.00% ++ ++ TREATED HAIR 3.99 14.0 23.0 16.0 22.22%+++ +++ (H2PO4) 4.49 18.5 25.0 19.0  7.69% +++ +++ 5.02 18.0 25.0 18.5 7.14% ++ ++ 6.93 18.0 25.0 18.0  0.00% +++ ++ 7.99 13.0 24.0 16.027.27% +++ +++ 2X 40 VOL BLEACHED 3.01 17.0 25.0 20.0 37.50% + + HAIR(H2PO4) 3.99 16.0 25.0 18.5 27.78% +++ +++ 4.49 16.0 24.0 18.0 25.00%+++ ++++ 5.02 18.0 26.0 19.0 12.50% +++ ++++ 6.93 16.0 24.0 18.5   31%++ ++ 7.99 21.0 28.0 21.0 0.00% +++ +++ Process D: The hair swatches areshampooed with Clarifying shampoo, towel blot and dried at medium heatwith blow dryer. The Composition I was applied liberally to the hairwith a brush and processed for 35 minutes. The hair was rinsed with lukewarm water. The hair is dried to about 95% with a blow dryer at low heatfollowed with flat ironing @ 430° F. using 7-8 passes. The hair wasrinsed after 48 hours. The performance % Curl Reduction, Shine andSmoothness was evaluated. PERFORMANCE pH Lo (cm) Ls (cm) Lt (cm) % CurlReduction Shine Smoothness NORMAL CURLY HAIR 3.51 15.3 23.2 16.5 15.19%+++ ++++ (H₂PO₄) 3.99 15.3 25.4 17.7 23.76% +++ ++++ 4.49 15.3 26.1 19.740.74% ++++ ++++ 5.02 15.3 22.8 17.3 26.67% ++ +++ 5.95 15.3 23.8 17.525.88% +++ +++ 6.93 15.3 23.6 19.3 48.19% ++++ ++++ 7.99 15.3 22.7 16.820.27% +++ ++++ NORMAL CURLY HAIR 3.82 14.8 26.3 16.2 12.17% ++ ++(CITRIC ACID) 4.1 14.8 24.2 18.7 41.49% +++ +++ 4.51 14.8 25 17.7 28.43%+++ +++ 5.03 14.8 24.8 17.2 24.00% ++ ++ 6.02 14.8 25.8 18.5 33.64% + +7.03 14.8 26 18.2 30.36% ++ ++ 8.06 14.8 25.2 17.4 25.00% ++ ++ 20 VOLCOLOR 3.01 16.0 27.0 20.0 36.36% ++ ++ TREATED HAIR 3.99 14.0 24.0 19.050.00% + ++ (H2PO4) 4.49 17.0 24.0 20.0 42.86% +++ ++++ 5.02 14.0 25.019.0 45.45% ++ ++ 6.93 15.0 24.0 20.0 55.56% ++ +++ 7.99 17.0 25.0 21.050.00% +++ ++ 2X 40 VOL BLEACHED 3.01 19.0 26.0 24.5 78.57% + + HAIR(H2PO4) 3.99 21.0 26.0 22.5 30.00% +++ ++++ 4.49 19.0 24.0 22.0 60.00%+++ ++++ 5.02 19.0 24.0 22.0 60.00% ++ ++ 6.93 21.0 27.0 24.0   50% ++++ 7.99 19.0 24.5 22.0 54.55% +++ +++ % Curl Reduction Evaluation: L0 =Initial Length of curly hair LS = Length of hair @ 100% Curl reductionLT = Length of treated Curly hair % Curl reduction = Lt − Lo × 100/Ls −L0 Shine and Smoothness Evaluation: Grading 0% ±  0-20% + 20-40% ++40-60% +++ 60-80% ++++ 80-100% +++++

The tabulated data of Table I above shows that the overall performanceof curl reduction, shine and smoothness on hair depends on the pH ofComposition I and method of application. The performance appears to bedependent on the pH and independent of the type of pH adjustor. Theoptimum performance of Composition I pH range on Normal, Color treatedand Bleached hair, appears to be between 4-5. Also, the performanceeffects are dependent on the method of application of composition I.Application methods A and D are preferable over methods B and C. Bothmethods A and D have high heat flat ironing greater than 400° F. withComposition I or rinsed off the hair. Curl reduction, increase inSmoothness and Shine of 40-80% have been observed on Normal, Colortreated and Bleached hair.

TABLE IA pH PERFORMANCE EFFECTS OF 1% NaF ON VERY CURLY/FRIZZY HAIR(NORMAL, COLOR TREATED AND BLEACHED HAIR TYPE) COMPOSITION I NaF 1.00%Amigel Thickener 0.60% Glycerol 0.50% Phenoxyethanol 0.20% 10%Phosphoric QS to pH Acid DI Water QS to 100% Process A: The hairswatches are shampooed with Clarifying shampoo, towel blot and dried atmedium heat with blow dryer. The Composition I Product was appliedliberally to the hair with a tint brush and processed for 35 minutes.The excess product was towel blotted and the hair is dried to about 95%with a blow dryer at low heat followed with flat ironing @ 430° F. using7-8 passes. The hair was rinsed after 48 hours. The performance % CurlReduction, Shine and Smoothness was evaluated. Hair Type pH Lo (cm) Ls(cm) Lt (cm) % Curl Reduction Shine Smoothness Normal 4.24 16.0 23.0019.00 42.86% + + 4.53 15.5 23.00 18.00 33.33% + + 4.77 17.5 24.00 19.0023.08% + + 20Vol Color Treated 4.24 21.0 26.50 22.50 27.27% +++ +++ 4.5318.0 26.00 20.50 31.25% ++ ++ 4.77 19.0 25.00 19.50  8.33% ++ ++ 2X 40VOL BLEACHED 4.24 17.5 24.00 19.50 30.77% +++ +++ HAIR 4.53 21.5 25.0022.00 14.29% ++++ ++++ 4.77 18.5 23.50 20.00 30.00% ++++ ++++ Process B:The hair swatches are shampooed with Clarifying shampoo, towel blot anddried at medium heat with blow dryer. The composition I product wasapplied liberally to the hair with a tint brush and processed for 35minutes. The excess product was towel blotted and hair was blow driedand straightened at high heat setting using a brush. The hair was rinsedafter 48 hrs. The performance % Curl Reduction, Shine and Smoothness wasevaluated. Hair Type pH Lo (cm) Ls (cm) Lt (cm) % Curl Reduction ShineSmoothness Normal 4.24 13.5 20.0 16.5 30.00% + + 4.53 14.5 22.0 17.033.33% + + 4.77 13.0 23.0 18.0 50.00% + + 20Vol Color Treated 4.24 18.025.0 20.0 28.57% +++ +++ 4.53 15.5 22.5 17.5 28.57% ++ ++ 4.77 14.5 22.516.0 18.75% ++ ++ 2X 40 VOL BLEACHED 4.24 20.5 26.0 21.5 18.18% +++ +++HAIR 4.53 19.5 26.0 22.0 38.46% ++ ++ 4.77 20.0 25.5 21.0 18.18% ++ ++Process C: The hair swatches are shampooed with Clarifying shampoo,towel blot and dried at medium heat with blow dryer. The Composition Iproduct was applied liberally to the hair with a brush and processed for35 minutes. The excess product was towel blotted and air dried from thehair. The hair was rinsed after 48 hrs.The performance % Curl Reduction,Shine and Smoothness was evaluated. Hair Type pH Lo (cm) Ls (cm) Lt (cm)% Curl Reduction Shine Smoothness Normal 4.24 17.0 27.0 20.0 30.00% ++++ 4.53 16.0 25.0 18.5 27.78% ++ ++ 4.77 16.0 25.0 18.0 22.22% ++ ++20Vol Color Treated 4.24 17.5 25.0 19.5 26.67% +++ +++ 4.53 16.0 24.018.0 25.00% +++ +++ 4.77 17.5 25.0 19.0 20.00% +++ +++ 2X 40 VOLBLEACHED 4.24 19.0 23.5 20.5 33.33% ++++ ++++ HAIR 4.53 19.5 22.5 20.016.67% +++ +++ 4.77 19.0 22.5 19.5 14.29% +++ +++ % Curl ReductionEvaluation: L0 = Initial Length of curly hair LS = Length of hair @ 100%Curl reduction LT = Length of treated Curly hair % Curl reduction = Lt −Lo × 100/Ls − L0 Shine and Smoothness: Grading 0% ±  0-20% + 20-40% ++40-60% +++ 60-80% ++++ 80-100% +++++

The tabulated data on Table IA shows that the optimum pH of CompositionI for maximum performance is about 4.50. This is in agreement with theprevious data of Table I. Exceptional curl reduction, smoothing andshine is observed on all hair types including Normal, Color treated andmulti bleached hair.

TABLE II Multi Treatment Effects of NaF versus Performance. PerformanceEffects of 1 Treatment, 1 Wash, 5 Wash, 10 Wash and 2nd Treatment with0.75% NaF Composition II-B on very curly/frizzy hair (Normal, Colortreated and 2X Bleached Hair Type) COMPOSITION II-B NaF 0.75% AmigelThickener 0.60% Glycerol 0.50% Phenoxyethanol 0.20% 50% Phosphoric AcidpH adjustment only QS DI Water QS. Process A: The hair swatches wereshampooed with an alkaline shampoo (pH = 8.10), towel blot and dried atmedium heat with blow dryer. The composition II-8 product was appliedliberally to the hair with a tint brush and processed for 35 minutes.The excess product was towel blotted and the hair is dried to about 95%with a blow dryer at low heat followed with flat ironing @ 430° F. using7-8 passes. The hair was rinsed after 48 hours. One of the swatch wasrinsed and evaluated, the second swatch was washed 1 times andevaluated, the third swatch washed 5 times and evaluated, the fourthswatch was washed 10 times and evaluated and the fifth swatch was washed10 times and 2nd treatment was repeated and after 48 Hours rinsed andevaluated for performance; % Curl Reduction; Shine and Smoothness. %Curl PERFORMANCE pH L_(o) (cm) L_(s) (cm) L_(t) (cm) Reduction ShineSmoothness NORMAL CURLY HAIR 1 Treatment 4.53 13.5 17.5 14.0 12.50% +++++ 1 Wash 4.53 13.5 17.0 13.5  0.00% ++ ++ 5 wash 4.53 13.5 17.0 13.5 0.00% ++ ++ 10 Wash 4.53 13.0 17.5 13.0  0.00% ++ ++ 2nd 4.53 14.0 18.515.0 22.22% +++ +++ treatment 20 VOL /6R 1 Treatment 4.53 13.5 18.5 14.010.00% +++ +++ COLOR TREATED HAIR 1 Wash 4.53 13.5 18.5 14.0 10.00% ++++ 5 wash 4.53 13.5 19.0 14.0  9.09% ++ ++ 10 Wash 4.53 13.5 18.5 13.5 0.00% ++ ++ 2nd 4.53 13.5 18.0 14.5 22.22% +++ +++ treatment 2XBLEACHED HAIR 1 Treatment 4.53 15.0 20.5 16.0 18.18% ++++ ++++ 40 VOL 1Wash 4.53 15.0 20.0 16.0 20.00% +++ +++ 5 wash 4.53 16.0 21.0 16.0 0.00% ++ ++ 10 Wash 4.53 15.0 20.5 15.0  0.00% ++ ++ 2nd 4.53 16.0 20.518.5 55.56% ++++ ++++ treatment % Curl Reduction Evaluation: L_(o) =Initial Length of curly hair L_(s) = Length of hair @ 100% Curlreduction L_(t) = Length of treated Curly hair${\% \mspace{14mu} {Curl}\mspace{14mu} {reduction}} = {\frac{L_{t} - L_{o}}{L_{s} - L_{o}} \times 100}$Shine and Smoothness Evaluation: Grading 0% ± 0-20% + 20-40% ++ 40-60%+++ 60-80% ++++ 80-100% +++++

The tabulated data on Table II shows that the performance longevity of asingle treatment with Composition II-B can last multiple shampoos. Inaddition, the performance of repeat or double treatments increasessignificantly the performance in curl reduction, shine and smoothness.

TABLE III Phase II-B- Effects of NaF pH on performance Curl ReductionStudy at Higher pH Range with 0.50% NaF Composition II-B on verycurly/frizzy hair (Normal, Color treated and 2X Bleached Hair Type)COMPOSITION II-B NaF 0.50% Amigel Thickener 0.60% Glycerol 0.50%Phenoxyethanol 0.20% 50% Phosphoric Acid pH adjustment only QS DI WaterQS. Process A: The measurement of the initial length (L₀) and (L₁₀₀) ofeach swatch was taken. The hair swatches were shampooed with ClarifyingShampoo, towel blot and dried at medium heat with blow dryer. TheComposition 11 “B” with different pH range was applied liberally to thehair with a tint brush and processed for 35 minutes. The excess productwas towel blotted and the hair is dried to about 95% with a blow dryerat high heat followed by flat ironing @ 430° F. using 7-8 passes. Thehair was rinsed after 48 hours and air dried. % Curl Reduction wascalculated with the final length (L_(t)) of each swatch after treatment.The results are as follows. % Curl pH Range pH L_(o) (cm) L_(s) (cm)L_(t) (cm) Reduction 4.51 Normal hair 4.51 12.5 17.5 13.5 20.00% 20Vol/CT 4.51 15.0 20.0 16.5 30.00% 2X Bleached 4.51 15.0 16.5 16.0 66.67%8.67 Normal hair 8.67 13.0 20.0 14.0 14.29% 20 Vol/CT 8.67 14.0 19.516.0 36.36% 2X Bleached 8.67 15.5 16.5 16.0 50.00% 9.05 Normal hair 9.0512.5 18.5 14.5 33.33% 20 Vol/CT 9.05 14.0 19.0 15.5 30.00% 2X Bleached9.05 15.5 16.5 16.2 70.00% % Curl Reduction Evaluation: L_(o) = InitialLength of curly hair L_(s) = Length of hair @ 100% Curl reduction L_(t)= Length of treated Curly hair${\% \mspace{14mu} {Curl}\mspace{14mu} {reduction}} = {\frac{L_{t} - L_{o}}{L_{s} - L_{o}} \times 100}$

The data of Table III shows the performance of Composition IIB, 0.50%NaF above pH 8.05 shows no advantages. This is probably due tounfavorable crosslinking between unprotonated amino R′—N—R″ (R′═H,C=0 orR″═H,C=0) peptide side terminals and the Fluoride ion that occurs athigh pH. Whereas the pH decreases the protonation of the amino group andspecifically the peptide side terminals of Lysine, Arginine R—NH3+ andwill favor crosslinking with the Fluoride ion. These side terminalcrosslinks R—NH₃F, —N—H2F, —N—HF or possible amide crosslinks F—N—C═Oare more favorable at low pH. Alternatively, favorable crosslinking mayoccur with the side OH side terminals of Threonine and Serine orindirect crosslinking followed by dehydration for Threonine sideterminal.

TABLE IV Effects of NaF Concentration on Performance versus Formaldehyde@ 0.5% PERFORMANCE EFFECTS OF % MCLA ON VERY CURLY/FRIZZY HAIR (NORMALCURLY, COLOR TREATED AND 2X BLEACHED HAIR TYPE) COMPOSITION II NaF0.5-2.5% Amigel Thickener 0.60% Glycerol 0.50% Phenoxyethanol 0.20% 10%Phosphoric Acid pH adjustment only QS DI Water QS. Process A: The hairswatches are shampooed with Clarifying shampoo, towel blot and dried atmedium heat with blow dryer. The Composition II product was appliedliberally to the hair with a tint brush and processed for 35 minutes.The excess product was towel blotted and the hair is dried to about 95%with a blow dryer at low heat followed with flat ironing @ 430° F. using7-8 passes. The hair was rinsed after 48 hours. The performance % CurlReduction, Shine and Smoothness was evaluated. % Curl PERFORMANCE % NaFSwatch pH Lo (cm) Ls (cm) Lt (cm) Reduction Shine Smoothness NORMALCURLY HAIR 0.50% A 4.49 14.0 25.0 17.0 27.27% xxx xxx 0.75% M 4.52 15.024.0 18.0 33.33% xx xx 1.00% B 4.51 14.5 23.0 17.0 29.41% xxx xxx 1.50%C 4.49 14.0 23.0 16.5 27.78% xx xx 2.00% D 4.51 14.0 25.0 16.5 22.73% xxxx 2.50% E 4.48 14.0 25.0 16.5 22.73% xx xx 0.5% Formaldehyde 0.00% FORM4.5 15.0 24.0 18.5 38.89% xx xx 20 VOL COLOR 0.50% A 4.49 16.0 24.0 18.531.25% xxx xxx TREATED HAIR 0.75% M 4.52 13.0 20.5 15.0 26.67% xx xx1.00% B 4.51 16.0 23.0 18.0 28.57% xx xx 1.50% C 4.49 16.0 24.0 18.025.00% xx xx 2.00% D 4.51 16.0 22.0 18.0 33.33% xx xx 2.50% E 4.48 16.023.5 18.5 33.33% xxx xxx 0.5% Formaldehyde 0.00% FORM 4.5 13.0 21.0 15.531.25% xx xx 2X 40 VOL BLEACHED 0.50% A 4.49 19.0 23.0 20.5 37.50% xxxxx HAIR 0.75% M 4.52 18.0 23.0 20.0 40.00% xxx xxx 1.00% B 4.51 20.525.0 22.0 33.33% xxx xxx 1.50% C 4.49 21.0 25.0 22.5 37.50% xxx xxx2.00% D 4.51 20.0 23.0 21.0 33.33% xx xx 2.50% E 4.48 18.0 23.0 20.040.00% xx xx 0.5% Formaldehyde 0.00% FORM 4.5 18.0 23.0 20.5 50.00% xxxxxx Process D: The hair swatches are shampooed with shampoo, towel blotand dried at medium heat with blow dryer. The composition II product wasapplied liberally to the hair with a brush and processed for 35 minutes.The hair was rinsed with luke warm water. The hair is dried to about 95%with a blow dryer at low heat followed with flat ironing at 430° F.using 7-8 passes. The hair was rinsed after 48 hours. The performance %Curl Reduction, Shine and Smoothness was evaluated. % % Curl PERFORMANCEMCLA pH Lo (cm) Ls (cm) Lt (cm) Reduction Shine Smoothness NORMAL CURLYHAIR 0.50% A 4.49 13.50 20.00 14.50 15.38% xxx xxx (H₂PO₄) 0.75% M 4.5215.00 25.00 18.00 30.00% xx xx 1.00% B 4.51 13.50 20.50 15.00 21.43% xxxx 1.50% C 4.49 12.00 20.00 14.00 25.00% xx xx 2.00% D 4.51 13.00 21.0015.00 25.00% xx xx 2.50% E 4.48 12.00 21.50 14.50 26.32% xxx xxx 0.5%Formaldehyde 0.00% FORM 4.5 12.00 19.00 14.50 35.71% xx xx 20 VOL COLORTREATED 0.50% A 4.49 17.00 24.50 18.00 13.33% xxx xxx HAIR 0.75% M 4.5214.00 22.00 16.00 25.00% xx xx 1.00% B 4.51 15.00 23.00 17.00 25.00% xxxxxx 1.50% C 4.49 16.00 23.00 17.00 14.29% xx xxx 2.00% D 4.51 16.0023.00 17.00 14.29% xx xxx 2.50% E 4.48 15.50 23.00 17.00 20.00% xx xxx0.5% Formaldehyde 0.00% FORM 4.5 14.00 22.00 17.00 37.50% xx xx 2X 40VOL BLEACHED 0.50% A 4.49 15.00 19.00 16.50 37.50% xx xxx HAIR 0.75% M4.52 20.00 23.50 21.00 28.57% xx xxx 1.00% B 4.51 16.00 20.00 17.0025.00% xx xxx 1.50% C 4.49 16.00 20.00 17.00 25.00% xx xxx 2.00% D 4.5115.00 19.00 16.00   25% xx xxx 2.50% E 4.48 15.00 20.00 16.50 30.00% xxxxx 0.5% Formaldehyde 0.00% FORM 4.5 20.00 24.00 21.50 37.50% xx xxx %Curl Reduction Evaluation: L0 = Initial Length of curly hair LS = Lengthof hair @ 100% Curl reduction LT = Length of treated Curly hair % Curlreduction = Lt − Lo × 100/Ls − L0 Shine and Smoothness Evaluation:Grading 0% ±  0-20% + 20-40% ++ 40-60% +++ 60-80% ++++ 80-100% +++++

The tabulate data of Table IV shows that the performance on normal hairis not affected greatly with the concentration increase of NaF from0.5-2.50%. However, on porous hair 20 volume and twice 40 volumebleached hair, NaF concentration effects are observed. The data showsequivalent performance to 0.5% Formaldehyde is obtained with 0.23% F(0.50% NaF). This observation can be explained due to the presence oflarger number of Ionic sites in hair which result in greatercrosslinking and overall performance of curl reduction and smoothingeffects. It also suggests that the crosslinking reactions of thefluoride and formaldehyde with hair may not entirely be the same. Thespecificity of crosslinking with the fluoride is greater thanformaldehyde, thus more predictable results can be obtained.

TABLE V Performance Evaluation using Treatment Processes E, F and G(Normal, Color treated and 2X Bleached Hair Type) COMPOSITION II-B NaF0.75% Amigel Thickener 0.60% Glycerol 0.50% Phenoxyethanol 0.20% 50%Phosphoric Acid pH adjustment only QS DI Water QS. PERFORMANCE pH L_(o)(cm) L_(s) (cm) L_(t) (cm) % Curl Reduction Shine Smoothness NORMALCURLY HAIR Process E 4.49 13.0 20.0 14.5 21.43% ++ ++ Process F 4.4913.0 20.0 15.0 28.57% +++ +++ Process G 4.49 13.0 20.0 15.0 28.57% ++++++ 20 VOL /6R Process E 4.49 10.0 13.5 11.0 28.57% ++ ++ COLOR TREATEDHAIR Process F 4.49 10.0 13.5 11.0 28.57% ++++ ++++ Process G 4.49 13.020.0 15.0 28.57% ++++ ++++ 2X BLEACHED HAIR Process E 4.49 14.0 18.016.0 50.00% ++ ++ Process F 4.49 14.0 18.0 16.0 50.00% ++++ ++++ 40 VOLProcess G 4.49 14.0 18.0 16.0 50.00% ++++ ++++ DIFFERENT PROCESSESTESTED Process E: Wash hair with clarifying shampoo. Towel blot excesswater and blow dry in medium heat up to 95% dry. Apply the Fluorideproduct thoroughly and comb hair through to ensure that all hair fibersare saturated with the product. Process for 35 min. Keep the hairstraight during process time. Rinse with luke warm water and towel blotexcess water. Apply a Moisturizing Leave-on Conditioner and detangle thehair with the comb. Blow dry hair in high heat. Take thin sections andflat iron at approximately 430° F. with 7-8 passes, make sure that allthe fibers are passed through the heat evenly. After 48 hours wash hairwith Sulfate Free Shampoo and Conditioner. Process F Wash hair withclarifying shampoo. Towel blot excess and blow dry in medium heat up to95% dry. Apply the Fluoride product thoroughly and comb hair through toensure that all hair fibers are saturated with the product. Process for35 min. Keep the hair straight during process time. Towel blot excessproduct and apply a deep conditioning masque. Comb through so that allthe fibers are covered with masque. Process for 10 min and rinse withLuke warm water. Towel blot excess water and Blow dry in high heat. Takethin sections and flat iron at approximately 430° F. with 7-8 passes,make sure that all the fibers are passed through the heat evenly. After48 hours wash hair with Sulfate Free Shampoo and Conditioner. Process GWash hair with Clarifying shampoo. Towel blot excess and blow dry inmedium heat up to 95% dry. Apply the Fluoride product thoroughly with atint brush. Comb hair through to ensure that all hair fibers aresaturated with the product. Process for 35 min. Keep the hair straightduring process time. Towel blot excess product and apply a Leave-OnConditioner. Comb through so that all the fibers are saturated. Towelblot excess and blow dry up to 95% dry. Take very thin sections and flatiron at approximately 430° F. with 7-8 passes, make sure that all thefibers are passed through the heat evenly. Section Hair and apply thedeep conditioning masque and process for 10 minutes. Rinse with Lukewarm water and style as desired. % Curl Reduction Evaluation: L_(o) =Initial Length of curly hair L_(s) = Length of hair @ 100% Curlreduction L_(t) = Length of treated Curly hair${\% \mspace{14mu} {Curl}\mspace{14mu} {reduction}} = {\frac{L_{t} - L_{o}}{L_{s} - L_{o}} \times 100}$Shine and Smoothness Evaluation: Grading 0% ± 0-20% + 20-40% ++ 40-60%+++ 60-80% ++++ 80-100% +++++

The data in Table V shows the different methods of treatment applicationto enhance the conditioning effects with the fluoride treatment. Alltreatment methods E, F and G increase the conditioning and smoothingeffects of hair. Based on the results it appears that method G is thebest where the fluoride is crosslinked first to the hair and theconditioning agents are further crosslinked by the fluoride. Thismulti-crosslinking effect of fluoride between the hair and theconditioning agent creates longer lasting effects between washes.Comparative results with just hair conditioning treatments of masking orrinse off conditioners shows a temporary effect that does not last morethan one or two shampoos. The fluoride crosslinked hair will have astrong affinity to bind different molecules, such as conditioning,antistatic, volumizing ingredients, keratin proteins and non-keratinousproteins. The crosslinking of fluoridated keratin reacts with functionalgroups of strong cationic character, such amino, mono or divalentcations forming strong ligand structures within the hair. The formationof these additional structures will restructure hair and produce effectsof increased softness, manageability and tensile strength.

Methods of Sodium Fluoride Application on Hair for MaximumConditioning/Smoothing Effects

Process E:

Wash the hair with Clarifying shampoo. Towel blot excess and blow dry inmedium heat up to 95% dry. Apply the Fluoride composition product onhair thoroughly. and comb through to ensure that all the fibers aresaturated with the product. Process for 35 min. Keep the hair straightduring process time. Rinse with luke warm water and towel blot excesswater. Apply a Leave-on Conditioner and detangle the hair with the comb.Blow dry with medium heat. Take thin sections and iron hair with apreheated flat iron with a minimum of 7-8 passes, making sure that allthe fibers are passed through evenly. After 48 hours wash hair withSulfate Free Shampoo and Conditioner.

Process F:

Wash the hair with Clarifying shampoo. Towel blot excess and blow dry inmedium heat up to 95% dry. Apply the Fluoride composition product onhair thoroughly and comb through to ensure that all the fibers aresaturated with the product. Process for 35 min. Keep the hair straightduring process time. Towel blot excess product and apply a deepconditioner, reconstructor or conditioning masque with a tint brush.Comb through so that all the fibers are covered with deep conditioner,reconstructor or conditioning masque. Process for 10 min and rinse withluke warm water. Towel blot excess water and blow dry with high heat.Take thin sections and iron hair with a pre-heated flat iron with aminimum of 7-8 passes, making sure that all the fibers are passedthrough evenly. After 48 hours wash hair with Sulfate Free Shampoo andConditioner.

Process G:

Wash hair with Clarifying shampoo. Towel blot excess and blow dry hairin medium heat up to 95% dry. Apply the fluoride composition product onhair thoroughly and comb through to ensure that all the fibers aresaturated with the product. Process for 35 min. Keep the hair straightduring process time. Towel blot excess product and apply a Leave-OnConditioner. Comb through so that all the fibers are saturated. Towelblot excess and blow dry up to 95% dry. Take very thin sections and ironhair with a pre heated flat iron with a minimum of 7-8 passes, makingsure that all the fibers are passed through evenly. Section Hair andapply a deep conditioner, reconstructor or conditioning masque andprocess for 10 minutes. Rinse with luke warm water and style as desired.

Moisturizing Leave on Conditioner Formula

Water

Amodimethicne

Glycine

Hydrolyzed Keratin

Hydrolyzed Silk

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Retinyl Palmitate

Ascorbic Acid

Benzophenone-4

Butylene Glycol

Ceteareth 25

Cetrimonium Chloride

Lecithin

Polyquaternium-11

Propylene Glycol

Steartrimonium Chloride

Sucrose

Tetrasodium EDTA

VP/VA Copolymer

Isopropyl alcohol

Fragrance

Deep Conditioning Masque Formula

Water

PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Behentrimonium Chloride

Panthenol

Hydrolyzed Keratin

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

VP/DMAPA/Acrylates Copolymer

Cetrimonium Chloride

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexyl glycerine

Hexylene Glycol

Fragrance

During our testing it was discovered that the cross linker compositioncontaining sodium fluoride had insufficient conditioning for combing andflat ironing of hair during the treatment. The conditioning was improvedby applying conditioning compositions on the hair after the applicationof the crosslinker composition but suffered from inconsistent resultsdue to the heterogeneous product on the hair. It was found for optimumconsistent performance a homogeneous cross linker composition withconditioning agents was necessary. The key conditioning agents, such asphenyl trimethicone, amodimethicne, polyquaternium-67 and cetrimoniumchloride, were required but not limited. However, the ready to usecrosslinker/conditioning composition presented stability/performanceissues. We currently believe that this was due to a change of thecrosslinking affinity of the fluoride to the hair by the conditioningagents. In order to alleviate this premixing of the crosslinkingcomposition with a conditioning composition was developed where thecross linker composition part 1 is mixed with the conditioningcomposition part 2 at ratios by weight of 10:90, 40:60, 55:45, 75:25 and95:5. Where the preferable composition would be 75:25. Two treatmentprocesses H and I resulted in excellent smoothing results in our studiesfor up to three months. Both processes include the rinse off and a leaveon conditioner for final sealing and smoothing of hair. For extendedsmoothing results the leave-on conditioner is used once or twice a weekafter shampooing and conditioning the hair.

Process H:

Wash hair with clarifying shampoo. Towel blot and blow dry hair to about90%. Premix Composition Part 1 and Part 2 at ratio of about 75:25 byweight.

Apply the premixed product on the hair. Comb through to ensure that allthe fibers are saturated with the product. Process for 35 min. Keep thehair straight during the processing time. Towel blot excess product andblow dry hair to about 90%. Take thin sections and flat iron atapproximately 430° F. with about 7-8 passes, make sure that all thefibers are passed through the heat evenly. Apply a deep conditioningmasque through the hair and wait for approximately 7-10 minutes.

Comb through so that all the fibers are covered with the deepconditioner. Process for 10 min and rinse with luke-warm water and styleas desired. After 48 hours wash hair with sulfate free shampoo andconditioner and style as desired.

Process G:

Wash the hair with clarifying shampoo. Towel blot and blow dry hair toabout 90%. Premix Composition Part 1 and Part 2 at ratio of about 75:25by weight.

Apply the premixed product on the hair. Comb through to ensure that allthe fibers are saturated with the product. Process for 35 min. Keep thehair straight during the processing time. Towel blot excess product andblow dry hair to about 90%. Take thin sections and flat ironapproximately 430° F. with about 7-8 passes, make sure that all thefibers are passed through the heat evenly. Apply a leave-on conditionerthrough the hair and wait for approximately 7-10 minutes. Comb hairthrough so that all the fibers are covered with the conditioner. Processfor about 10 minutes, remove excess and style as desired. After about 48hours wash hair with sulfate free shampoo and conditioner and style asdesired.

Composition Part 1 (w/w) % Water 95.17 Phosphoric Acid 1.70 NaF 1.33Phenoxyethanol 0.80 Glycerine 0.50 Hydroxypropyl Guar 0.50 pH = 4.50

Composition Part 2 (w/w) % Water 85.22 Alcohol Denatured 4.62Cetrimonium Chloride 1.24 Phenyltrimethicone 1.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.80Amodimethicone 0.63 Trideceth-12 0.27 Polyquaternium-67 0.55 VP/VACopolymer 0.30 Polyquaternium-11 0.30 Fragrance 0.10 SteartrimoniumChloride 0.023 Isopropyl Alcohol 0.012 pH = 5.65

Leave-On Conditioner (w/w) % Water 93.69 Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein 1.00Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Glycerin 0.50 Hydroxyethyl Cetyldimonium phosphate1.00 Cetrimonium Chloride 0.75 Polyquaternium-28 1.00 AmodimethiconeTrideceth-12 1.00 Stearyldimonium hydroxyl propyl Lauryl 0.50 PanthelyHydroxypropyl Sreardimonium Chloride 0.20 Polyquaternium-22 0.20Fragrance 0.05 VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer 0.10 Dimethicone/Silica 0.02Phosphoric acid QS to pH pH = 5.73

TABLE VI Detection of Fluoride Ion in Normal, Colored and BleachedSingle Treated Hair Fibers with Composition II, 0.75% Na F @ pH 4.51Analysis of fluoride ion in single treated hair initially and aftermultiple washes with smoothing shampoo and conditioner. μg Fluoride/gHair 1 10 15 0.75% NaF Treatment 3 Wash 5 Washes Washes Washes NormalControl 0 0 0 0 0 Normal Treated 3529 2875 2662 2564 2046 Color Treated0 0 0 0 0 Control Color Treated 3380 3673 3892 3393 2796 Treated 2xBleached Control 0 0 0 0 0 2x Bleached Treated 1876 1374 802 845 1007Hair type: Normal, 20vol/6R Color Treated and 2X Bleached hair.Variations: 1 treatment; 3 wash; 5 wash; 10 wash and 15 washes BufferSolution: 25 ml. TISAB II + 25 ml. DI H₂O for immersing the hair samplefor 48 hours. Standards for Calibration: 2, 4, 6, 10, 20 (μg/ml)Fluoride Ion Detection Limit = <0.1 (μg/ml) Fluoride Ion Procedure: Allthe hair swatches were washed with an Alkaline Shampoo at pH 8.09. Thecontrols and the samples to be treated were dried to 95% with blowdryer, at medium heat setting. The hair swatches (approximately 5 inchin width) were treated with composition II (0.75% NaF) pH = 4.51.Processed for 35 min. Towel blot excess. Dried up to 95% dry with blowdryer at medium heat followed with flat ironing small sections of hairat approximately 430° F. with 7-8 passes. After 48 hours the hair wasrinsed with copious amounts of water and hair was dried at ambientconditions and cut into small 1/16″ sections. The hair was furtherequilibrated under ambient conditions for 8 hours and hair samplesweighed about 0.5 grams and were immersed into 50 ml of buffer solutions1:1 Total Ionic Strength Adjustment Buffer (TISAB II): Deionized Waterfor 48 hours. Direct analysis of the Fluoride Ion was carried out in theleached solutions using the Fluoride Ion Selective Electrodepotentiometric method (ASTM D 1179-72) approved by the American Societyof Testing and Materials. The hair swatches were washed 3x, 5x, 10x and15 x, and the hair was dried with blow dryer between the washes. Themulti washed hair samples were analyzed as above.

The data in Table VI shows that fluoride is detected in normal, coloredand bleached hair treated hair. Based on the assay results about 3,400μmoles F/g hair is detected in water/buffer leaches of normal and colortreated hair. This is compared to 1,800 μmoles F/g hair for bleachedhair. This detection of fluoride in treated hair even after fifteenwashes suggest that stable crosslinking has occurred and it is resistantto conventional shampooing and conditioning. The detection of fluoridein the buffer/water leaches is about 42-46% after fifteen shampoosshowing slow rate of depletion or leaching of fluoride from hair. Basedon these observations long lasting results of up to fifteen or moreshampoos should be expected from a single treatment.

TABLE VII pH EFFECTS OF 1% NaF ON THE TENSILE STRENGTH OF NORMAL, COLORTREATED AND 2X BLEACHED HAIR 20% INDEX 2x pH Normal Hair 20 Volume HairBleached Hair 3.51 0.977 0.932 0.788 T-Test @pH 3.51 P = 0.0028* P =0.041* P = 0.00024* 4.49 0.982 0.936 0.759 T-Test @pH 4.51 P = 0.00005*P = 0.036* P = 0.00413* 6.01 0.980 0.925 0.756 T-Test @pH 6.20 P =0.0040* P = 0.069 P = 0.0058* 7.62 0.966 0.910 0.744 T-Test @pH 7.62 P =0.132 P = 0.0082* P = 0.0118* Brazilian Blowout 0.820 Solution; @pH 3.778% Formaldehyde T-Test P = 0.0143* Untreated Hair 0.959 0.834 0.707*statistically significant difference from untreated hair Procedure:Hair for tensile testing was prepared with five bundles of twelve hairfibers (total of 60 fibers) of similar texture with Normal, 20 Volume,2x Bleached hair. The bundles were immersed in water for 1-2 hours andthe initial wet tensile strength of all the bundles was evaluated at 20%extension using an Instron Model 1122C5054 at 0.5 inch/minute. Thebundles after 24 hours were washed, blow dried with a paddle brush toabout 95% and the NaF Composition I at pH 4.50 was applied with the tintbrush and processed for 35 minutes. After the excess product was towelblotted and blow dried to about 95% with medium heat using a paddlebrush, each bundle were flat ironed at approximately 430° C. with 7-8passes. After 24 hours, the fibers were soaked in DI water and after 45minutes the tensile strength of bundles was determined under theidentical conditions. The tensile strength of bundles was determinedversus untreated fibers with composition I. The wet tensile strength ofeach bundle was calculated as 20% index given below: 20% Index = Forceof hair fibers after treatment/Force of hair fibers after treatment

The tensile strength studies showed that statistically a singletreatment of normal, colored and bleached hair with the fluoridecomposition I statistically and significantly improved the tensilestrength. The wet strength is attributed by adding support to the alphahelical crosslinks of cystine. This is not an expected effect for wetstrength since all secondary bonds should be minimized in water. It isinteresting that formaldehyde has significantly decreased the tensilestrength of hair which suggests the weakening of these crosslinks. Thissupports our understanding that the crosslinking reactions and mechanismbetween the fluoride and formaldehyde is different.

Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) of Hair

Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) techniques published earlier byCao (J. Cao, Melting study of the a crystallites in human hair by DSC,Thermody. Acta, 335 (1999) and F. J. Wortmann, (F. J Wortmann, C.Springob, and G. Sendlebach, Investigations of cosmetically treatedhuman hair by DSC in water, IFFCC.Ref 12 (2000) are used to study thestructural changes of hair by measuring the thermal decompositionpattern or behavior. The thermal stability of hair is evaluated bymeasuring the amount of thermal energy required for denaturation orphase transition. The technique measures the amount of heat transferredinto and out of a sample in a comparison to a reference. The heattransfer in (endothermic) and out (exothermic) is detected and recordedas a thermogram of heat flow versus temperature.

The technique gives valuable information on the morphological componentsof hair of Feughelman's accepted two phase filament matrix model forhair (M Feugelman, A two phase structure for keratin fibers, Text. Res.1, 29, 223-228, 1959). This two phase model includes the crystallinefilaments (alpha helical proteins) or traditionally referred to asmicrofibrils which are embedded in an amorphous matrix.

The DSC data technique yields thermogram data on the denaturationtemperature T_(m) and the denaturation enthalpy (delta H) of hair. It isconcluded that the thermogram data of the denaturation temperature T_(m)of hair is dependent on the crosslink density of the matrix in whichsurrounds the microfibrils or crystalline filaments. Also, thedenaturation enthalpy (delta H) depends on the strength of thecrystalline filaments or microfibrils. It has been shown that cosmetictreatments, such as bleaching or perming, effect these morphologicalcomponents selectively and differently at different rates causingchanges in denaturation temperatures and in heat flow.

DSC was use to analyze the effects of NaF treatment on Normal, 20 volumecolor treated and four times bleached hair. The treatment includedProcess A using Composition I at 1% NaF at pH 4.50. The hair after 48hours was rinsed and dried at ambient temperature conditions andrelative humidity (20° C., 65% RH). The hair samples were cut into smallpieces of about 2 mm in length and about 4-7 mg weighed into aluminumpans followed with capping. The hair samples were analyzed using PerkinElmer Diamond DSC instrument and a method of 50° C. to 280° C. at 20°C./minute using an empty capped aluminum pan as reference.

The obtained DSC thermograms for treated and untreated hair samplesshowed single endothermic (absorbed thermal energy) denaturationtemperatures T_(m) ranging from 178 to 189° C. and delta H from 154 to340 (J/g). The comparative tabulated data below for normal untreated andtreated hair shows differences in the denaturation temperatures of178.88 and 184.33° C., respectively, with no differences in the delta H.This is due to changes in the crosslink density of the matrix attributedby an increase in the crosslink density of the matrix proteins with NaF.Based on the delta H it is assumed that the intermediate filaments oralpha helical protein regions or microfilaments are not affected. Theresults for 20 volume color treated and untreated hair show significantstatistically changes in the delta H (p=0.00019) of 226.53 and 270.01(J/g) and no changes in the denaturation temperature. This observationsuggests that the effects of NaF on 20 volume color treated hair areprimarily on the alpha helical protein regions with no effect on thematrix proteins. The multi bleached hair fibers show statisticallydifferences in the denaturation temperatures 187.76 and 181.49° C. anddelta H 260.28 and 318.16 (J/g) between untreated and treated samples.This observation suggests that both the matrix proteins and thealpha-helical proteins are affected by the NaF treatment. This data isin good agreement with previously reported data by Humphries et al.JSCC, 1972 on oxidized and colored dried hair showing higherdenaturation temperatures and delta H. The explanation may be explainedby an increase in crosslinked bridges between the polypeptide chainsgiving more structural support. This appears to be the same observationwith the NaF increasing the overall support for hair throughcrosslinking on the matrix proteins and alpha helical regions of thehair.

Endotherm

HAIR Peak Temperature (C°) Delta H (J/g) Normal 178.88 ± 1.80 154.98 ±6.23 Normal (Treated) 184.33 ± 1.88 159.06 ± 3.65 T-Test Normal Hair P =0.06892 P = 0.315 20 Volume 181.84 ± 2.63 226.53 ± 1.14 20 Volume(Treated) 182.94 ± 3.07 270.01 ± 2.53 T-Test 20 Volume Hair P = 0.588 P= 0.00019 4x Bleached Hair 187.76 ± 1.51 260.28 ± 10.19 4X Bleached Hair(Treated) 181.49 ± 0.93 318.16 ± 22.07 T-Test Bleached Hair P = 0.00033P = 0.015

It should be understood that the foregoing description is onlyillustrative of the present disclosure. Various alternatives andmodifications can be devised by those skilled in the art withoutdeparting from the disclosure. Accordingly, the present disclosure isintended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications, and variancesthat fall within the scope of the disclosure.

What is claimed is:
 1. A hair care composition comprising: acrosslinking component comprising an inorganic fluoride; and aconditioning component, wherein said composition has a ratio ofcrosslinking component to conditioning component in the range of about10:90 to about 95:5.
 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein saidinorganic fluoride is present in said crosslinking component in aconcentration of between about 0.1 to about 15%.
 3. The composition ofclaim 1, wherein said crosslinking component has a pH range of betweenabout 3.0 to about 8.5.
 4. The composition of claim 3, wherein said pHis between about 4.5 to about 5.5.
 5. The composition of claim 1,wherein said crosslinking component further comprising at least oneadditional component selected from the group consisting of: a thickener,a preservative, a humectant, a pH adjuster, soothing agent, emollients,emulsifiers, fragrance and water.
 6. The composition of claim 5, whereinsaid crosslinking component comprises: said inorganic fluoride having aconcentration in the range between about 0.1 to about 15%; saidpreservative having a concentration in the range between about 0.2 toabout 1%; said humectant having a concentration in the range betweenabout 0.1 to about 1%; and said water to bring the concentration up to100%.
 7. The composition of claim 6, further comprising a pH adjuster tobring the crosslinking component to a pH in the range between about 3.0to about 8.5.
 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein said inorganicfluoride is at least one selected from the group consisting of: sodiumfluoride, potassium fluoride, ammonium fluoride, lithium fluoride,stannous fluoride, aluminum fluoride, zirconium fluoride, nickelfluoride, tin fluoride, ammonium hexafluorophosphate, sodiummonofluorophosphate, stannous fluorozirconate, and stannouschlorofluoride.
 9. The composition of claim 5, wherein said preservativeis at least one selected from the group consisting of: phenoxyethanol,sorbitol, potassium sorbate, sodium sorbate, methyl paraben, propylparaben, imidazolidynyl urea, and DMDM hydantoin.
 10. The composition ofclaim 5, wherein said humectant is at least one selected from the groupconsisting of: glycerine, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,diglycerin, panthenol, sodium PCA, sugar alcohols, lecithin, hydrolyzedwheat proteins, hydrolyzed rice proteins, hydrolyzed keratin proteins,hydrolyzed silk proteins, lipids and polyols.
 11. The composition ofclaim 5, wherein said thickener is at least one selected from the groupconsisting of: polysaccharide, cellulose, cellulose, derivatives,natural gums, natural polymers, synthetic polymers and inorganic gelmineral silicates.
 12. The composition of claim 5, wherein said pHadjuster is at least one selected from the group consisting of:phosphoric acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid,and bases that include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodiumcarbonate, ammonium hydroxide, isopropanolamine, and monoethanolamine.13. The composition of claim 2, wherein said inorganic fluoride ispresent in said crosslinking component in a concentration of betweenabout 0.1 to about 3.0%.
 14. The composition of claim 13, wherein saidinorganic fluoride is present in said crosslinking component in aconcentration of between about 0.4 to about 1.25%.
 15. The compositionof claim 1, wherein said ratio of said crosslinking component to saidconditioner component is about 75:25.
 16. The composition of claim 1,wherein said conditioning component comprises at least one selected fromthe group consisting of: amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, dimethicone,behentrimonium methosulfate, citrimonium chloride, citrimonium bromide,cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, phenyltrimethicone,pantethine, panthenylethylether, silicone quaternium, gelatin, keratinamino acids, and polyquaternium.
 17. A method for treating haircomprising: applying a premixed composition comprising (a) acrosslinking component comprising an inorganic fluoride and (b) aconditioning component to a user's hair, wherein the hair isstraightened, smoothed, defrizzed or curled and wherein said premixedcomposition has a ratio of crosslinking component to conditioningcomponent in the range of about 10:90 to about 95:5.
 18. The method ofclaim 17, further comprising the step of rinsing said hair treated withsaid inorganic fluoride composition.
 19. The method of claim 18, furthercomprising the step of blow drying said hair either before or after therinsing step.
 20. The method of claim 19, further comprising the step offlat ironing said hair after blow drying.
 21. The method of claim 17,wherein said inorganic fluoride is present in said crosslinkingcomponent in a concentration of between about 0.1 to about 15%.
 22. Themethod of claim 17, wherein said crosslinking component has a pH rangeof between about 3.0 to about 8.5.
 23. The method of claim 22, whereinsaid pH is between about 4.5 to about 5.5.
 24. The method of claim 17,further comprising at least one additional component selected from thegroup consisting of: a thickener, a preservative, a humectant, a pHadjuster, soothing agent, emollients, emulsifiers, fragrance and water.25. The method of claim 24, wherein said crosslinking componentcomprises: said inorganic fluoride having a concentration in the rangebetween about 0.1 to about 15%; said preservative having a concentrationin the range between about 0.2 to about 1%; said humectant having aconcentration in the range between about 0.1 to about 1%; and said waterto bring the concentration up to 100%.
 26. The method of claim 25,further comprising a pH adjuster to bring said crosslinking component toa pH in the range between about 3.0 to about 8.5.
 27. The method ofclaim 17, wherein said inorganic fluoride is at least one selected fromthe group consisting of: sodium fluoride, potassium fluoride, ammoniumfluoride, lithium fluoride, stannous fluoride, aluminum fluoride,zirconium fluoride, nickel fluoride, tin fluoride, ammoniumhexafluorophosphate, sodium monofluorophosphate, stannousfluorozirconate, and stannous chlorofluoride.
 28. The method of claim24, wherein said preservative is at least one selected from the groupconsisting of: phenoxyethanol, sorbitol, potassium sorbate, sodiumsorbate, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidynyl urea, and DMDMhydantoin.
 29. The method of claim 24, wherein said humectant is atleast one selected from the group consisting of: glycerine, propyleneglycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, panthenol, sodium PCA, sugaralcohols, lecithin, hydrolyzed wheat proteins, hydrolyzed rice proteins,hydrolyzed keratin proteins, hydrolyzed silk proteins, lipids andpolyols.
 30. The method of claim 24, wherein said thickener is at leastone selected from the group consisting of: polysaccharide, cellulose,cellulose, derivatives, natural gums, natural polymers, syntheticpolymers and inorganic gel mineral silicates.
 31. The method of claim24, wherein said pH adjuster is at least one selected from the groupconsisting of: phosphoric acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid,acetic acid, and bases that include sodium hydroxide, potassiumhydroxide, sodium carbonate, ammonium hydroxide, isopropanolamine, andmonoethanolamine.
 32. The method of claim 21, wherein said inorganicfluoride is present in a concentration of between about 0.1 to about3.0%.
 33. The method of claim 32, wherein said inorganic fluoride ispresent in a concentration of between about 0.60 to about 1.25%.